Permanent Makeup Removal - Specialists and Information

Permanent makeup is the umbrella term for the permanent coloring of eyelids, eyebrows, and lip contours. It also includes the application of beauty spots, thickening the lash line, and filling in lip color.

Permanent makeup on the lips makes them look fuller, adds color, and defines their shape @ Ruslan Malysh / AdobeStock

Unlike other tattoos, cosmetologists apply the pigment less deeply into the skin during PMU. This makes it water- and smudge-resistant and gives it a freshly applied look. It has a limited lifespan of three to five years.

The challenge with removing permanent makeup is that many patients do not know which colors were used.

Therefore, patients should thoroughly research the topic beforehand. They should only entrust themselves to experienced medical professionals and specialists.

Permanent makeup (PMU) pigments are special dyes used for cosmetic tattoos @ Vadim /AdobeStock

Even though UV rays break down pigments on the facial skin much more quickly, there are many reasons to remove tattooed makeup prematurely:

• The most common reason is that enhancing eyebrows, lips, and other features does not produce the desired results. Incorrect coloring, sloppy execution, or asymmetrical results can make the face look mask-like. Failed PMU procedures can be a psychological burden for those affected.
• Others have grown tired of their look or are following changing beauty ideals. While particularly thin eyebrows were popular for microblading just a few years ago, today’s trend is toward bushy, striking brows.
• But even if the permanent makeup meets their expectations, some women have it removed prematurely because it fades unevenly. This is because the skin’s aging process also alters the appearance of the permanent look. Frayed lines or patchy areas are the result of natural skin aging.

Caution is advised when correcting the look through camouflage. If the PMU has been botched, those affected want a quick solution. I

In desperation, correction is the treatment of choice. However, this only makes sense if estheticians enlarge the tattoos using the same color. 

If practitioners cover unsightly areas with skin-colored pigments (camouflage), subsequent laser treatments carry risks. In an attempt to put an end to the nightmare, areas covered with skin-colored pigment often turn dark (color change).

Laser treatment is considered the most reliable method for PMU removal. Laser treatments effectively remove color pigments from beneath the skin. Since 2021, only qualified physicians have been permitted to perform this form of therapy. This is because there are several factors to consider when using lasers. Depending on the color of the makeup, specialists require different types of lasers.

During treatment, the laser selectively heats the color pigments, causing them to break down into smaller particles. These particles are then small enough for the body to recognize them as foreign substances and eliminate them via the lymphatic system. When performed by a qualified professional, laser treatment does not damage surrounding tissue and leaves no scars.

Most patients find laser treatment to be relatively painless. As a rule, therefore, anesthesia is not necessary.

Not all PMU can be removed equally well or completely.

Therefore, the duration of the treatment depends on:

• Color
• Depth and 
• pigment density

On average, specialists require about three to ten sessions spaced four to eight weeks apart. Those affected must therefore live with an incomplete result for an extended period, which can be a burden.

Depending on the size of the area, the cost of treatment ranges from 150 to 500 euros.

It is more expensive when the specialist removes multicolored tattoos. This requires the use of various lasers with different wavelengths.

At reputable clinics, a consultation and a test treatment are free of charge. Since most patients do not know exactly which color pigments were used, experts recommend a test treatment. 

During this procedure, the specialist treats a small area with the laser to test how the ink reacts. This is done before the full-area treatment begins.

Dermatologists and estheticians also use topical fruit peels to remove permanent makeup. Fruit peels exfoliate the outermost layer of skin and stimulate the epidermis to form new layers. However, this lengthy process offers no guarantee of complete removal.

With the remover technique, the makeup artist injects a solution under the skin that binds the color pigments and brings them to the skin’s surface. 

This treatment is only suitable for areas far enough away from the eyes. Removing eyeliner is therefore not recommended. However, this method reliably removes any color.

After the treatment, patients should apply the moisturizing creams prescribed by the doctor to the affected area.

Experts often advise avoiding sports, swimming pools, and saunas to prevent infections and slow wound healing.

Lasered areas are sensitive to light. Sunscreen and head coverings reliably block out sunlight.

Removing permanent makeup is part of daily practice at many dermatology clinics. When performed properly, the risk of burns and scarring is less than 4.5 percent.

Other risks include:

• Release of carcinogenic components contained in dyes
• Color change, especially with white and skin-colored pigments
• Eye damage if the laser is not handled properly
• Lightening of other areas of skin (hypopigmentation)

To reliably remove permanent makeup, you should consult only experts. Before doing so, you should thoroughly research the available treatment options.